Since taking the reigns at Y/Project in 2013, Glenn Martens has quickly proven himself to be a master of blending and balancing. His innate curiosity tends to lead in many directions simultaneously, but each season he manages to take his various points of inspiration and create one cohesive collection of forward-thinking, distinctive clothing and items that you can’t wait to get your hands on.
This season, the Belgian-born designer was inspired by the royalty of two very different eras: the royal court of the 18th century, from Henry VIII to Marie Antoinette, and hip hop royalty of the 1990s, from Biggie to Missy Elliott. Though their peaks were centuries apart, the two tribes shared similar preferences, from opulent jewelry and oversized, voluminous cuts to rich, textured fabrics.
Many of the best looks were layered, from three-piece denim suits to a crimson leather look complete with red, thigh-high boots, and a particular favorite, silky slip dresses over houndstooth trousers. Track pants and wide leg trousers were cuffed and bubbled at the hem, and topped with slouchy off the shoulder jackets. Details in the form of swirls, ruffles, and draped fabric added to the air of excess without feeling superfluous—they served a purpose, if only an aesthetic one.
Though it may sound like a lot, Martens’ masterful mind always manages to make it work—and make the case for a “more is more” attitude.