To say it’s been a minute would be an understatement, but after a 16-year hiatus from presenting his womenswear collection in London, Hussein Chalayan felt that the time was right to head back home. Revisiting one of his favorite venues, Sadler’s Wells—the storied theater that has often played host to his presentations—the designer breathed new life into his line surrounded by friends and familiar faces.
The collection was a study in contrast. Sharp pieces in muted, somber tones focused on form and structure. As with other collections this season, long layers were in abundance. But it wasn’t a total brooder’s ball. The show concluded with a series of wearable party poppers: designs emblazoned with chest shields that models tore open at the end of the runway, showering the stage with confetti, feathers, and sparkly streamers.
Welcome back, kid.